Thursday, 9 May 2013

Fuerteventura, part eight - incredible Cofete.

A big day today, and we were excited!! We were heading South to the Jandia province of Fuerte'. We drove right down to the bottom of the isalnd, our first stop being Moro Jable. Quite a sizable town, with some nice features but again, we are not too keen on the larger places, but we parked the car and set off to explore.

The ferry at Moro Jable, which regularly goes to Tenerife.

We didn't stop long, preferring to get to our next goal. Looking back to the harbour and town, from the road above Moro Jable.

View to the right of the road of the volcanic ridge, from road to Jandia, Cofete is on the other side of this ridge.

Strange caravan village on Jandia. As we drove towards the lighthouse, we noticed this strange collection of caravans. It was obvious they were static, as there seemed to be what looked like wooden extensions on the other side. We'll investigate this more on the way back.

Road to lighthouse, just a ribbon amongst the lava flow.

Punta Jandia lighthouse, which houses a museum you can walk around.

We explored the museum and lighthouse, then walked out onto the headland, noticing thousands of stone hearts, which had been fashioned by people using the little bits of volcanic rock scattered around. They seemd to go on FOREVER!

Of course, we had to make one too.
Our little effort. Not as grand as some, but it's the thought that counts :-)

Us and Lighthouse

There was lots of wave action here too, with the sea crashing onto the rocks at Jandia peninsular.

After a walk around for about an hour, we headed back to try and find out more about the weird 'caravan town' at Puerto de la Cruz. You can see now what I mean about them all having extensions - some of them quite substantial. I really am not sure, but the best I could glean from someone with broken English is that this is a sort of national park, and although there ARE some proper buildings, no more are allowed to be built, so people move into these caravans and wait...... until one of the houses becomes available  then THEY move in (and I suppose someone takes their place in the caravan town).
If anyone knows better, please leave a comment at the bottom of this posting.
Extensions on back of caravans.

 Cafe at Puerto de la Cruz. We just thought this was the only 'game in town', so went in for coffee. It was here I asked the waiter about the caravans.
The ubiquitous Coca Cola tables and chairs.

There was a HUGE selection of flotsam and jetsam collected and displayed outside the cafe. It was one of those OCD things, where someone had started, and then just kept on going. Looks like they save everything they find here!

Inside the cafe - more fixtures pertaining to the sea. 

 Sculpture in Puerto de la cruz. These are the proper buildings, behind the caravans. I decided to explore the streets while Sue finished her coffee. I just wanted to get a few pictures of this unusual place.

Lone fisherman at Puerto de la Cruz

I wandered around the corner, just inquisitive, and found this other cafe, which looked much less lugubrious than the first one - I should have taken this wander first! Also, in this one, there was a fabulous sea view from the patio. There were also a lot more customers, who seemed to be enjoying VERY much, the food and drink on offer.

The salads looked delicious - and BIG!

The ferry from Moro Jable passes the Faro de Jandia.

I fetched Sue to look at this hidden cafe, and we decided that this was where we'd eat if we came back another time. I also read that this cafe serves the BEST fish soup in the Canaries - no mean boast!

 We re-traced our steps along the peninsular road, and turned up the dirt track that leads to one of the must-do's - Cofete beach .The drive along the dirt track is 'interesting - you wouldn't want to get a puncture or break down, that's for sure! You can see a video by clicking HERE

The stunning volcanic backdrop to Cofete beach, from the Roque de Moro viewpoint. This view hits you - BANG - as you come over the crest of the pass. It is breathtaking, especially on such a clear day.
You can see the dirt track of a road snaking around the contours of the land.

You can see a video from the viewpoint by clicking HERE As we were very high here, the sound is a bit windy, but no less than you'd expect.

While were were there, we read in the news that Cofete had been voted sixth best beach IN THE WORLD! It's so wild, turtles sometimes drag themselves up the beach to lay their eggs (but we didn't see any).

As we dropped down into the outskirts of Cofete, we saw lots of shack dwellings. Some quite new looking, others like hovels.

The gates to the beach cemetery. Last date of an interment was 1953 - the year I was born! You can read a little of Cofete HERE and a little about a real enigma that sits above the beach, villa Winter , by clicking HERE We tried to research the villa and the cemetery, but both are shrouded in mystery, particularly the villa.

Simple crosses in the graveyard.
The villa Winter sits on the volcanic slopes. For such a remote location, it's a VERY grand residence! See the tower? There are close-up pictures on the link (above)
  Looking South along the amazing Cofete beach.

And looking north along it - it stretches for MILES, and it's idyllic! We could see something in the distance on the sand - was it a turtle????

No - bizarrely, it was an old TV that had been washed ashore in the storms.

It looked really incongruous sitting on this lovely beach.
I wondered if 'Baywatch' was on ;-)

 Sue likes the look of those waves, I'm sure she won't be able to resist (even though there were warnings not to swim because the huge waves created a strong rip current underneath).

I knew it!
 Free massage - courtesy of the Atlantic rollers.

Of course, I couldn't resist, and it wasn't long before I joined her. You had to be vigilant, and keep an eye on the waves. I always say - NEVER turn your back on the Atlantic!!
We stayed in the shallows, and enjoyed the battering effect of the rollers. We came out feeling refreshed and invigorated.

You can see a short video of the waves on Cofete by clicking HERE

This is my favourite shot of the beach - I managed to get quite an ethereal feeling into it. THIS is the shot that makes me sigh when I look back at the holiday shots.

 We wandered back to the car, and drove over to this statue of a man and dog We also called at the cafe for the worst coffee, by a MILE, I have ever had. It was SO rank, I couldn't drink it!!

Inside the 'cafe'. Quite a 60's feel to it. I don't think I'd trust the food here!

A large kiln below the statue.

I wish they had put some kind explanatory plaque to tell people what this statue was all about?

Looking across Cofete to the Villa Winter.

I don't think I've ever seen a more imposing and incredible shot - those clouds made it PERFECT.

We left Cofete with small clouds gathering over the tops. It was a hard place to leave.
We re-traced our steps, and made for the little restaurant at La Pared we'd visited previously. We'd only had drinks, but were eager to try the food at La Bahia.

We got there after a couple of false turnings due again to no signage, and enjoyed a FABULOUS meal of mussels to start with.

Do you like fish??? Well, you're REALLY spoilt for choice here - look at this;
THIRTY TWO choices of fresh fish - now that HAS to be a first!!!

We chose a favourite as a starter - Huge, green-lipped mussels.
The sauce the mussels were in was indescribably tasty.

The a dish labelled 'fish selection' (all lovely, most of which we'd never heard of!!).

All served in a rustic manner, befitting the dish, along with a few, simple Canarian potatoes.

 A nice glass of white to wash it down. (Note my 'holiday shirt').

Afterwards, a surprise digestif, on the house.

With the setting sun picking out the mountains of Lanzarote, we reflected on what had probably been our best day so far. We drove home with to the strains of the Flamenco guitarists CD we bought at 'El Capitan' - PERFECT choice for our mellow mood.

To be continued...............


  1. Nice exploration Les. That Villa Winter and the Wikipedia link reminded me of some villas built at a place called Atlanterra near Franco's favourite holiday destination at Barbate on the southern coast of Andalucia.

  2. oh and Lugubrious is a word that is often confused with another word

  3. I don't even know what it means!

    Have to say I couldn't eat the fish dishes but I only do cod in batter !

  4. Gringo, we tried SO hard to get info' on that Winter place, but it really is quite a mystery!! We gave up in the end, as it was like chasing your tail. If anyone knows the REAL story, they're not saying ;-)
    BTW, this is exactly what I meant;

    lu·gu·bri·ous [loo-goo-bree-uhs, -gyoo-] Show IPA
    mournful, dismal, or gloomy, especially in an affected, exaggerated, or unrelieved manner: lugubrious songs of lost love.

    Thing is - I used the word MORE, when I should have said LESS (now corrected).
    Wendle - ;-) x